The Vagabond Library
Reach up, reach in, reach beyond, reach out.
Articles Guaranteed to Stretch Your Mind
Sit by the fireplace, have a drink and a good read
with curious people like you.
The Camino de Santiago: Europe’s Most Famous Christian Pilgrimage - What to Expect on the Camino de Santiago - Part I
DISPATCH XXXVII
Once inside the church I was fear-struck. But why? It was my childhood as a catholic altar boy mixed with the dread and power of the enormous church. Hesitantly I walked to the sacristy door, certain that when I knocked a rogue nun would slap my wrist or shake me by the shoulders and waggle her finger at me for daring to invade the sacred privacy of the place. But finally I did knock on the big wooden door. Me, a heathen agnostic, fallen from the Church, wanting not salvation but a credential for some personal adventure. I had interviewed Nobel Laureates, shaken hands with Henry Kissinger and met who knew how many celebrities, but here I was beside myself.
The door opened. An elderly, kindly priest stood before me. He wore his cassock and collar. His hair was dark and thinning. He smiled at me. I stuttered out my purpose for being there in a few syllables of mangled Spanish. A two euro contribution was usually expected in exchange for the passport, but I only had one euro or €20. Did he have change? He gently waved his hand away. The money was unnecessary, and then handed me the “passport.” I felt right then that he must be the kindest man in the world, and thanked him far too many times. Outside I showed the piece of paper to Cyndy and grinned. I knew now that we were officially on "The Way."
My Moroccan Ha-Ma-Ma-Maaamm
DISPATCH XXXVI
I followed her through a narrow archway and down steep stone steps into the riad’s bowels. We were way down there. Inside I found three dark rooms, one with a tub (too small for a human), the other two with large tables — one stone and one wooden. The whole scene looked like a great place to hold the Spanish Inquisition. The rooms were pristine, but I wondered if Riad Kalaa had always been a Hammam. It was built in the 1600s. Maybe it used to serve as a medieval dungeon. Rayna chuckled and said she didn’t know, but explained that the Hammam ritual was routine for Moroccan muslims. Then she shot me a look as if to say, “Really, you’re gonna like it.” I checked for chains and manacles anyway.