Fellow Vagabonds Make Their Recommendations

After traveling 122,000 miles (so far) across 7 continents, you tend to run into a traveler or two that have found their way to some extraordinary places on the planet. The people we have come across have floored us with their experience and knowledge. You name the place — Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, on a ship from Montevideo to Lisbon (21 days), Svalbard in the Arctic Circle at one end of the world and the Peninsula of Antarctica at the other. They come in all varieties and have travelled in every way imaginable. World class kayakers like Bill and Mary Neal; Rick Remmel who recently hiked to Mt. Everest’s base camp; Gaetan and Perrine (who saved us and our broken car in Patagonia) and drove from California to Alaska onto Boston and then started over from the top of South America to its bottom; Mike Hyman who has run amok in 113 countries (at last count) and our old friend Francis Hurteau (sadly, no longer with us) who insisted we must visit Madura, India, “home to the greatest massages in the world, period.” It’s on the list Francis!

Having gathered all of this abundant information, it seems unfair to withhold it from the rest of you. So here, with some photos and mostly in their own words, are selected recommended locations from just about everywhere, shared over scores of coffee cups and wine glasses, meals and miles by the many terrific people we have met who know a thing or two about hitting the open road. (And there will be more!) Most of these are locations we have not yet seen or will not be able to share ourselves because we missed them, or have yet to reach on our world tour. You can’t see everything after all! (But you can try ;-).

If you have anything you’d like to share, please do in the comments at the bottom of this article so others can see your thoughts, or if you have any articles throughout our rapidly expanding website you’d like comment on, please do. We have hundreds of articles and recommendations and you can chime at the bottom of any page on the website. Or simply send me an email. We always want to hear from you.

Columbia, Bolivia and the Galapagos

By John and Andrea Fedele

COLUMBIA’S CARIBBEAN COAST

We met the Fedele’s, who hail from Colorado, while were were traveling on the Navimag Ferry, which travels every week from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, Chile through a thousand miles of the Chilean Archipelago, some of the most remote locations in the world. You can learn all about our experience there in our Daily Journal. We loved John and Andrea because they were up for anything, as you’ll see, along with their two children, Elena and Dante. These suggestions are only a small sample of their many excursions. I’m very grateful to them for sharing this information.

“We enjoyed the Caribbean coast of Colombia. We mostly just relaxed on the beaches/pools.  We stayed in Tayrona National Park as well as a resort east of there in Palomino, Aite.  The beaches were great as was the food.  And we really loved Cartagena and wished we would have spent more time there in the old town which resembled Cuba.  This was the last stop on our trip.  [NOTE: John and Andrea and their two tween children spend a year traveling through South America exploring the cultures and learning Spanish. Andrea is an M.D. and Johns a successful cabinetry business in Colorado.]

We did stay on an island off the coast that was a lot of fun, Tierra Bomba.  The Blue Apple resort had a great beach, pool, and food.  And again we mostly relaxed except mom and daughter rode horses a couple days and we did a day tour on a boat to the other islands nearby.  You can see their adventure on PolarSteps.

BOLIVIA

Also, we all were really impressed with Bolivia.  And not just because we settled in for over a month and did not have to pack and unpack every 2-4 days…The Salt Flats, or Salar De Uyuni, were quite impressive.  We also toured the national park just south of the flats.  This was one of our favorite experiences of the trip.  We basically were off-roading to different sites with a guide who was Quechuan and spoke no English and poor Spanish, and in an old Land Cruiser, while he chewed on coca leaves the entire time. 

We also went to Lake Titicaca and stayed on Isla Del Sol which was really cool.  There are Incan ruins on the island and we hiked around and did some sightseeing.  Bolivia was the kids’ favorite place, partly because we met other families and backpackers at the Spanish school.  Not to mention, we really lucked out with our host family.  They were awesome and had four boys, 7-17 years old.  Poor Elena [the Fedele’s daughter] :-).  They built a beautiful new house in the heart of Sucre during Covid.  And we had ladies come every day to cook our meals and clean, yet it was ridiculously cheap.  We really got spoiled there.

THE GALAPAGOS

The Galapagos were kinda like the grand finale even though we still had a few more weeks to travel around in Ecuador and Colombia.  Everything about that experience amazed us.  The tour company we hired, Quasar, took care of everything.  We flew from Quito to San Cristobal island.  From there we boarded the Evolution and began our adventure.  The crew of around 20 took care of the 25 or so guests.  The food was incredible, the three naturalist guides were great, and the whole experience on the islands and snorkeling was awesome.  Each night before dinner, everyone met in the lounge and a guide would go over the schedule for the next day.  The guests were divided in to three groups, we happened to be the boobies.  It took the kids three days to not crack up every time they said boobies…Even though we were in groups, everyone made it a point to eat at a different table with different guests each day.  Everyone on the boat was great, mostly retired American gringos.  We were the only ones with kids. 

Our days entailed hiking on the islands, snorkeling once or twice a day, and kayaking/paddleboarding.  The wildlife and pristine nature was incredible.  So many species unique to the Galapagos.  We visited the Darwin center as well and saw the giant tortoises.  Our best day was the one when we snorkeled with sea lions, sharks, sea turtles, rays, and dolphins.  It really was the highlight of the trip, the dolphins were unexpected bonus.  We were heading back to the Evolution and our guide noticed them out in the open ocean.  So, we raced to them on our panga and all jumped in, it was awesome!  Our trip ended and we flew from the island of Baltra to Guayaquil.  I would absolutely recommend Quasar Expeditions [the company that handled the expedition].  They have 8 and 15 night expeditions.  The boat travels at night and you wake up at different island each morning.  It is quite comfortable with large rooms and AC.  And, they often have deals, 40% off, or if you book last minute they are willing to work with you.  That’s what we did, booked it within 30 days and got almost 50% off.  We would not have done it otherwise as it is quite expensive. 

The Dolomites and Igazu Falls

Gaetan and Perrine - French Engineers

Gaetan and Perrine saved us when our car broke down in Patagonia. What are the chances that when your battered Renault rental car stops working in the wilds of Chile, AND your cell service blinks out, that you run into two fellow travelers who happen to be English speaking French engineers?! Yet, it happened and we will always be grateful to these two beautiful people who happened to be driving in their van from northern South America to the tip of the continent when they found us. The journey these two made from Alaska to the southernmost city in South America reveal two wonderfully sweet people with a dragon-sized appetite for travel.

They also shared with us their explorations of one of the world’s great natural wonders, Iguazu Falls in Eastern Brazil. (We did not make it because we were busy busing 2000 miles from the tip of South America to Montevideo, Uruguay to make a ship to Lisbon, the only one that would get us across the Atlantic as we continued heading East and to the North Pole.) Anyhow, here’s their short list of great places to visit in the Dolomites region of Italy as well as Igazu Falls.

DOLOMITES

Here are the places they suggest visiting among these magnificent mountains. We’ll make a point of coming back because it looks spectacular!

“Lago di Carezza: Unreal transparent lake!
Passo Sella: A pass where we passed by car.
Lago di Sorapiss: Magnificient turquoise lake!
Lago di Misurina: Nice lake with hotel in background.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo: 3 famous peaks you can reach only by hiking. Quite a long trek.
Lago di Braies: Very nice but very touristic lake, paid parking.
Lago di Cavazzo: Nice lake Perrine knows. Not exactly in the same region.
Cerdevol Curnila: Very nice little river, transparent and unfamous. But don’t get there as a destination, just if it’s on the road. Not easy to find.

IGUAZU FALLS, BRAZIL

Together, they make up the largest waterfall system in the world. The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu. The name Iguazú comes from the Guarani or Tupi words "y" [ɨ], meaning "water", and "ûasú" [waˈsu], meaning "big". Legend has it that a deity planned to marry a beautiful woman named Naipí, who fled with her mortal lover Tarobá in a canoe. In a rage, the deity sliced the river, creating the waterfalls and condemning the lovers to an eternal fall. The first European to record the existence of the falls was the Spanish Conquistador Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca in 1541. It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013.

Pictures of Igazu Falls. Photos by Gaetan.

Sokotra, Yemen, And The Nubian Pyramids Of Ethiopia

From Joseph Simcox - Botanist and Wild Character Met in Svalbard

We met Joseph in Longyearbyen, Svalbard, Norway, the world’s northernmost human habitation and he made quite an impression with his long gray hair and immense Cossack hat. He has travelled throughout the world and you can learn more about our meeting with him when we came across him at the Longyearbyen Airport. (Svalbard was one of the few places we were forced to fly despite my best efforts to avoid that.)

While we sat awaiting our return to Tromsø, Norway, he shared some of the most exotic places his work as a botanist and ecologist have taken him. Sokotra, Yemen, for example. Yemen is, of course, one of the most dangerous places in the world right now, but if you go, he told us you must fly into Abu Dhabi and then take a plane to the island from there. It is one of the most beautiful islands he had ever seen he said.

He also said we’d have to visit the Nubian Pyramids of Ethiopia. He had quite a story to tell as he attempted to cross the border from Sudan into Ethiopia to see them. One thing you can be sure of. He’s not boring. His website is as eclectic and eccentric as he is: explorewithjoseph.com.

Alexandria, Cairo, And The Nile

Gail Guenther — artist and traveler

I’ve never met Gail face to face, but she found me through some of my books and then our travels and a friendship ensued. She has explored Egypt so thoroughly that she married an Egyptian man. We are in the middle of exploring Egypt right now and will share our experiences soon, but in addition she offered some very specific advice about that storied nation. Visit her excellent paintings on facebook.

Some of her thoughts on Egypt you may find helpful…

— “All toilets are bidets. You clean yourself with your left hand then wash your hands. You feed your mouth with your right hand. The left hand is only used as support in handling the food.

— Muslims don't blow on their food to cool it off. They just wait until it's cool enough to eat.

— Pedestrians have the right of way except on the major highways. Suggest using Uber. Their version is called “Indrive.”

— The traffic in Egypt is crazy but they have excellent drivers. The traffic keeps moving along. It almost never stops. The car with its nose ahead has the right of way. If a car wants to pass, it comes up alongside your car and beeps so you know to give it space. Drivers almost never get angry or upset. It's truly amazing. 

— Visit Alexandria and Marsa Mathou. There are very few tourists in Marsa Mathou. It is beautiful and the Mediterranean Sea is amazing. If you get there during their season, which ends in August-September, you should take a dip in the Sea.

— The Mediterranean Sea water is amazing!

— In Egypt, foreigners, including all Americans, are charged a different rate which makes everything more expensive but they may have suggestions for getting around some of that.

— Visit the Tombs of Luxor and Aswan and the Valley of the Kings and see Queen Hatsheput's Temple in Luxor. While in Aswan make sure to see the High Dam too. You can explore these areas by boat, train, minibus or taxi. (Chip note: I’ll have more details once we complete extensive explorations of Alexandria, Cairo and the Nile including Luxor, Aswan and Abu Simbel.)

Off Japan’s Beaten Path

Rose - Ex-Boeing Engineer

From an American we met on our 21 day voyage across the Atlantic. Rose speaks fluent French and has traveled around the world. She had plenty of advice for us over various meals or walks around our Ponant ship, but she made a special point of telling us not to miss spending time in Shikoku Island.

Her advice: “Go to Shikoku Island — train will take you to this smallest of Japan’s four main islands. Used to be off the path. Hopefully still is. Stunning. “ She says to search out the small villages on the coast. I’ll see if I can get more info from Rose. My notes fail me. But we’ll make a point of getting there!

A World Cruise

Ginny and Bryan Maupin - Retired

“I'm finally getting around to filling you in with more info about our Oceania cruise.  It's called the Ultimate Exotic Traveler, a 79-day voyage from Papeete, Tahiti to Cape Town, South Africa.  The dates are Feb 19-May 9 (2024).  We go to so many places on our cruise that we have to get at least 5 visas.  I think I counted 38 ports.  We will definitely be busy!  We travel to French Polynesia, New Zealand, Australia, Bali, Singapore, Thailand, India, to name just a few.” Learn more about Global Journeys Cruises.

Lesser Known Destinations in Ancient Greece

Tom Scanlon - Fellow Vagabond

Tom is another Vagabond, except this relationship goes back to high school where Tom and I both studied at a Jesuit High School while considering going the Catholic priesthood. He can share thoughts on places to visit around ancient Greece because he’s a world expert. Here’s a bit of what he shared.

“Great to hear from you and thanks for taking the time during your very busy travelling. Btw, you may know this but it’s one of my fun facts: travel is related to the word travail, which comes from a medieval Latin word trepalium or tripalium, a torture device with “three stakes” (tres palus)— not sure what that looked like but the point is still valid. Though in my experience, the joys much outweigh the travail, or the pain is part of the pleasure?

I think of you and marvel at your stamina. Maybe the grounding and stay in the 'Burgh was salutary?  I envy the Trieste sojourn— it’s on our list. Also the other stops on the Adriatic coast (especially Diocletian’s palace at Split) But we’ve not been higher than Greece’s Prevetza where we went to the doorway to Hades at the Necromanteion on the Acheron River.

…and also to Nikopolis, the ‘victory city’ near the site where Octavian defeated Anthony and Cleopatra and games were held.”

“I know you’ll be rushed a bit at the Greek end, but on the Adriatic side you’ll pass ancient Olympia, and further down there is Messene, an amazing site recently excavated with a full marble stadium, a theatre and a council house/boule.”

“On the northeast of Greece, probably off your track, is Stageira, a lovely rustic site where Aristotle’s was born — you can see how his interests in nature and environment were fostered:

And also in that area, the recently uncovered tomb of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great (and Aristotle’s student).

We’ve not been to Cyprus, but Crete is excellent: Knossos is a must-see, as is the Museum at Heraklion where the precious goodies are displayed” (Note: We did visit Knossos and a few other locations in Heraklion. Look for those stories soon.

Deep Sea Diving In The Red Sea

Philippe, Candy Company Executive and Andrea, Professional Midwife

“My friends and I have regularly flown from Switzerland to Hurghada, Egypt (the other two famous places are Sharm el Sheik and Marsa Alam) and from there we would spend a week on a boat. The highlights of the dives are Brothers islands, Elphinstone and Daedalus (you will find more infos online). My highlight is diving into the many shipwrecks that sunk in the red sea. By far the best is the "SS Thistlegorm" - a British freight ship that was full of military equipments (trucks, cars and even one locomotive) when it was sunk by German bombers in 1941 (there are many pictures online).

Enjoy these nuggets of travel wisdom. And if you have any to ad, please do and we’ll share them with others. If you have questions, we can pass them along! Just ad them to the comments below where everyone can see your thoughts and questions! Thanks! Now crack on!